Traveling in Indian Country

Two newspaper articles came to my attention today that illustrate the paradox I feel when traveling in Indian country. The first story appeared in the Independent and detailed the Navajo Nation's concern over protecting the San Francisco Peaks north of Flagstaff, Arizona, from desecration. The peaks, called Dook’o’oosliid in Navajo, are the sacred mountain to the west and one of four mountains held holy by the Navajo people and other tribes. The Forest Service has approved plans for an expansion of the ski resort on the peaks which includes using reclaimed sewer water to make artificial snow. Indian religious practitioners view this as desecrating sacred ground and have sued the government. The tribes are now seeking the intervention of President Obama to settle the dispute.

My connection to the San Francisco Peaks is not so deeply religious but it is nonetheless spiritual. When I travel to northern Arizona I always look for the appearance of the distinctive outline of the volcanic cone of the peaks on the horizon no matter from which direction I approach. It signals a coming home to a an area of the country that I love. I have climbed to the top of Humphreys Peak and felt the power of the place. So I am sympathetic with the Indians' feelings. It is another example of the dominate culture's lack of concern for a minority culture, particularly that of native Americans.

The second story is from the Arizona Daily Sun and is about the Navajo Nation's plans to build a $200 million casino complex at Twin Arrows, 20 miles east of Flagstaff. For many years the Navajos resisted the allure of gambling money but have finally started building casinos. This goes against taboos on gambling that are part of the Navajo culture. I know that profits from the casinos are funding vital services both on and off the reservation. I love the irony of the Indians gaining from an entertainment that is outlawed in most of the rest of the United States. It seems about time that the red man gets to stick it to the white man. I can't help but feel a twinge of saddnes, too.

If there is a point to these two stories, it's this. Keep your mind open on a road trip, as well as your eyes. You are likely to encounter strange things that will surprise and perplex you. Be aware and you will be richer for the experience.

11 Essential iPhone Apps for a Road Trip

If you own an iPhone, or for some of these applications an iPod Touch, here is a review of some very useful applications for road trips. I like keeping track of gas milage for my vehicle and challenging myself to make improvements, so when I got an iPod touch to replace my trusty Palm Pilot, I went looking for a good program to track milage. After trying several, I settled on Road Trip. You can use it as a simple milage tracker, or if you're obsessive about it, it allows you to record more information such as location, octane, road conditions and method of payment. You can also designate a range of dates as a particular road trip to analysis. All together a handy application with great support from the developer, Darren Stone.

11 Essential iPhone Apps for a Road Trip: "Whether you’re driving 20 miles or 2000, being able to find gas, grab a bite to eat, keep up with the news or check the map for your location are all essential to a good journey on the road. With the right iPhone apps, you can avoiding sticky situations like running out of gas or getting lost miles from home."

Defining The Slow Road Movement

I have been thinking about words to describe what makes traveling along US Route 89 special. Robert Sullivan in his book, Cross Country, suggested that people who prefer to drive on two-lane roads rather than Interstates should start a "slow road" movement, a la the slow food movement. What that idea has come to mean for me is taking the time to enjoy the journey rather than speeding from destination to destination. It means stopping in little towns to visit the historical society museum. It means looking for a local café for lunch. It means meeting people and getting to know the particular culture of that region. It means being adventurous and curious and occasionally disappointed, but never bored.

For example, you can drive from Phoenix to Flagstaff on Interstate 17 and get there in about two hours. The scenery isn't bad and there are services available in the Verde Valley with the usual assortment of chain restaurants. Or you can drive to Flagstaff on historic US Route 89 where the possibilities for an enriched experience are nearly endless. Here's a short list to whet your appetite:

Visit the Desert Caballeros Western Museum in Wickenburg where you'll find an eclectic mix of art exhibits and local history displays.

Eat breakfast or lunch at the Cornerstone Café in Yarnell where you can indulge in the best pasteries you've ever eaten.

Spend a hour on Courthouse Square and Wiskey Row in Prescott where you can try the craft-brewed beer at the Prescott Brewing Company or shop for art a Van Gogh's Ear.

Hike to the Woodchute Wilderness at the top of Mingus Mountain for spectacular views of the Verde Valley.

Explore the prehistoric ruins at Tuzigoot National Monument to learn about the culture of the first farmers on the Verde River.

Spend the night on Oak Creek at Forest Houses Resort where each of the 14 guest houses is unique.

I could go on and on but you get the idea. You could spend a day or a week on just the 250 mile stretch of road represented by Arizona 89 and 89A.

So what do I call this kind of travel? 'Authentic' comes to mind meaning going to places where you will have an experience that you can have nowhere else. Or the newest term that is becoming common is 'geotourism' which aims to focus on the unique culture and history of a region. In conjunction with the National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destinations, several regions along US Route 89 have produced a Geotourmism map to guide travelers. The newest effort to produce a map is underway on the Western Heritage Trail from Surprise, Arizona, to the Grand Canyon.

OK, I can go along with the idea behind geotourism. For me the real benefit of this kind of driving vacation is slowing down and really enjoying the pleasure of discovering new places and meeting the wonderful people who live there. It's easy to be part of the slow road movement. Take the first exit from the Interstate and find a two-lane road that leads you to the heart and soul of America.

Beginner's Guide to Tent Camping: How to Camp and Where - Associated Content

When I think road trip, I think camping. Our summer vacations while our kids were growing up were always camping trips. Over the years, we acquired a good assortment of camping gear from tents to cooking equipment and more coolers than I can count. The practical advantage of camping is that the cost is much lower than staying in motels. (I admit that after three or four days of sleeping in a tent, we would check into a motel to take showers and maybe watch a little TV.) But of greater importance is enjoying the outdoors and having close access to the wonders of our national and state parks

If you are new to camping, here is a great guide to get you started.

Beginner's Guide to Tent Camping: How to Camp and Where - Associated Content: "Beginner's Guide to Tent Camping.
There's something enchanting about sleeping in a tent under the stars and hearing the breeze, the gentle rain, and the wildlife. Your dining room is a serene forest, a soft meadow, or a nearby tranquil lake."

Planet News Article, Jackson Hole Wy | At a Glance: NEWS BRIEFS | 4/8/2009

When we were camping in Grand Teton National Park last year during a road trip for the US Route 89 project, we noticed that the park was constructing a very nice pathway next to the park road for pedestrians and bicyclists. Now this path will be connected to one from the town of Jackson. For sure the next time we head that direction we will take our bikes and enjoy the ride between Grand Teton and Jackson.

Planet News Article, Jackson Hole Wy | At a Glance: NEWS BRIEFS | 4/8/2009: "No obstacles for North 89 pathway
Jackson Hole, Wyo.-Teton County will move forward on a future pathway that will connect the Town of Jackson and Grand Teton National Park along North Highway 89."

TheStar.com | Entertainment | Ten songs that just say road trip

Every road trip needs a sound track. Here's a list of ten tunes to get you started on building the perfect mix. What are your favorite car and road trip songs?

TheStar.com | Entertainment | Ten songs that just say road trip: "Neil Young's not exactly first past the post when it comes to writing songs about cars, is he?

Songs about our trusty, fossil-fuelled vehicles are about as old as our trusty, fossil-fuelled vehicles themselves. There are so many, in fact, that you can now break songs about cars into any number of busy sub-categories: songs about driving cars, songs about dying in cars, songs about (ahem) 'doing it' in cars and so on and so on."

In a slump, camping comes into vogue - CNN.com

In addition to saving money by driving on the slow roads, many people are saving money and getting back to nature by camping instead of staying in motels. There are many great campgrounds that can serve as a base for day trips to local attractions. A good example is the White Bridge Campground in the Dixie National Forest near Panguitch, Utah. Just off Utah Route 143, this 29-site campground is within easy driving distance of Cedar Breaks National Monument, Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks. And if you get tired of camp food, the Cowboy Smokehouse Café is just down the road in Panguitch. There is more information on this stretch of US Route 89 in the Road Trip Guide for Kanab to Sevier.

In a slump, camping comes into vogue - CNN.com: "With the economy in a slump, camping seems to be grabbing a new foothold in the travel industry. Once considered by many to be an activity for nerdy families, nature geeks and Boy Scouts, sleeping outside in a tent has become chic -- likely because it is so much cheaper than paying for a hotel room.

The activity also strikes a new chord with Americans who want to get back to basics after an era of excess and overspending."